Member Resources - Welcome Sisters!

General Orders: Remember to get a copy of the latest General Orders from the National website by clicking on the crest on their home page.

SmugMug: Photos and graphics take a large piece of our limited space on MoonFruit. I have moved our ancestor documents and photos from the MoonFruit Scrapbook to our own gallery at SmugMug. The pages are exclusive to RC members and cannot be located by internet search engines. You may download photos from the galleries.

National Encampment: In 2010 our National Encampment will be held August 12-15 in nearby Overland Park Kansas, at the beautiful Marriott Hotel. A side trip to the Steamship Arabia Museum is a planned excursion. Details will be posted on the SUVCW  website when available.

Free Printable Stationary for your own use can be found at D & W Daily Supplies They have patriotic along with many other themes, for those times when email just won't do. When you find one that you like, right click on the image, and choose "save picture as". Save the image to a folder in your "My Documents", then open the file and print. You can personalize the stationary by adding your name, a quote or scripture in a text box. If you don't know how to do that or to size the image to the page, feel free to call Terri, who will be glad to talk you through the steps.

Civil War Period Attire 

By choosing to represent the Auxiliary while wearing period attire for our events, we have an opportunity to present a positive image to the public, and help to raise awareness for the ASUVCW and the SUVCW in Oklahoma.

Your dress will be viewed as a representation of what actual women who lived during the Civil War era, wore. The following is not meant to be a complete guide, only to direct you to knowledgable mentors and resources for further independent research. A carefully chosen 1860's outfit can be affordable if you acquire the right elements wisely over time.

Glenna Jo Christen, who is a scholar, movie consultant, and mentor in the reenactment community, said ""Accuracy is a process, not a final result, because the goal of accuracy keeps moving as we keep learning and share what we've learned."  While no one will point out our mis-steps, be aware that we will likely be associating with civilian reenactors who know how an accurate representation should look. We typically will attend 2-3 events each year in our period dress. As we gain experience and knowledge, each successive event will offer an opportunity to improve our "impression" as we grow and learn together.

In the Beginning...

Period sewing techniques are very different from our modern construction methods. If you do not sew or don't want tackle the job, contact a knowledgable seamstress. She will consult with you about your choice of dress pattern, fabrics, and underpinnings. Terri and Charlotte have worked with Pat Cassaday and were very pleased with the results, (with documentation for the style found here) . Be sure to allow at least three months notice before a planned event. Pat takes a break during the holiday season.

Before purchasing fabric or making other important decisions, please ask for guidance. Learning about period textiles - patterns and color combinations - is challenging. It takes time, effort, and looking at lots and lots of images of period garments and period fabrics to develop a "Victorian Eye". Although we are concentrating on the 1860's, which are considered to be the middle Victorian era, Victorian times stretched from 1837 into the 1890's. Fabric and other elements that may appear to be generically "Victorian" from our 21st century perspective, may be from the wrong decade. In other words, don't wear saddle oxfords with your mini skirt.

Visit the website for Texas Civil War Civilian LIving HIstory or the Atlantic Guard Soldiers Aide Society a reenactment group in Virginia. Both offer clothing guidance and useful information.

Start with the Basics:

Your chosen seamstress will understand that the ability to properly fit your dress will depend upon having the correct foundation garments or "underpinnings". See the handouts from our August meeting for details. The following is from "Undressing your Heroine", a website for writers of historial fiction, explains about corsets from a different point of view:

"The Rebel Without Underwear Myth: Ladies (the class about which most authors choose to write) would NOT have gone about without their corsets, anymore than women today would go around without their bras (barring when one is a college student and still possesses gravity defying breasts). Those of us who don’t wear bras simply because social standards tell us we’re supposed to, wear them because the “bounce” of an unrestrained breast can be downright painful. A corset that is made for you, and you alone, is very comfortable. They don’t pinch (it’s impossible), they don’t poke (unless the boning is working its way out), and they don’t make it impossible to breathe (unless for some unknown reason, you’re trying to lace it up tighter than you normally wear it) ...The corset merely provided the right silhouette."

A Word About Dress Fabric: 

Silk and light weight wool were available, but your fabric for a casual "day dress" of the type typically worn in what was then Indian Territory, will most likely be 100% cotton in a period correct color and print. Woven cottons with stripes, windowpane plaids, gingham plaids, and calico were available. Synthetic fibers or blends are not only inaccurate, they will be dangerous near open fires if you attend a reenactment. "Stop, Drop and Roll" does not work while wearing a hoop skirt. Check our Links page for Cyrilla's Artful Needle, a Broken Arrow quilt shop which carries good quality reproduction fabrics. Other area fabric and quilt shops may have material that is suitable. See the following Resources page for links to online fabric stores, and manufacturers which make reproduction fabrics.

Most laces and trims at local fabric shops are too wide, too large scale, or simply too synthetic and modern. Doll supply resources on the internet are one possible solution. Be aware that white cotton lace was used only on undergarments, and colored lace was not used. Trims used on the bodice only, should be no more than 1/4" wide and of natural fibers. Appropriate materials would include narrow width silk ribbon, and cotton braid or gimp.

Many dresses had very narrow self-piping along the neck, waist, and armscyes, but not on the back seams, and not of a contrasting color. Bodice closures were in the front, and made with hook and eye. Buttons were decorative. Do not use velcro or hidden zippers.

Shoes  

Authentic reenactment shoes or boots are expensive, but reasonably priced substitutions can be found. Look for low heeled, lace up ankle boots, with a plain sole (no waffle stompers) such as the St. John's Bay® Kelly II offered by JC Penney. You can replace the laces with these which are the same as used in the custom made reenactment boots. They are a bargain at the price. Although boots will be the most versatile and common, the resources at Fanny and Vera's can also serve as a guide for other shoes.  A brief but helpful discussion on locating appropriate footwear can be found here.

Finishing Touches: 

Today's hairstyles are a reflection of our own individuality. Women of the 1860's were taught from a young age to conform to a rigid code of social and fashion standards. The most common 1860's hairstyle for middle age and older women, was center parted, pulled back and secured neatly at the nape of the neck. Side parts were used only by men. Hair pieces can help with having a style that is fashionable in two centuries. If your hair is not long enough to make a bun, either the Sheer Romance Bun, or the Chic Chignon bun  would look very classic when worn low on the back of the head. See Terri's Color Ring if you would like to look for a match from this vendor.  Bangs which were not worn, should be slicked back or tucked under with gel or hairspray.

Although your clothing layers will provide some warmth in cooler weather, women of all social classes were known to have worn shawls. Anna Worden's article discusses the types, sizes and fabrics that would have been available in the 1860's. A downloadable version of the full article is available on her website.

Fashion bonnets of straw or silk can be plainly trimmed, or fancy. Your choice will depend somewhat on the style of your dress. Slat or corded sunbonnets are practical and cost effective option, however, do not make a fabric bonnet in the same material as in your dress. Bonnets are appropriate for all ages. Hats were typically worn only by fashionable girls under 18. Reenactors refer to older women who wear young styles, as "Mutton Dressed as Lamb". When visting sutler tents found at reenactments, avoid the felt bonnets, calico prairie bonnets, battenburg lace parasols, crocheted gloves, and the ubiquitous elastic and rayon "snoods" - none of which are accurate for our era.

Decorative hair nets were mainly for evening wear, and never worn under a bonnet, or worn outdoors in lieu of a bonnet.  According to Anna Allen at In Timely Fashion : "Another thing to keep in mind that the "doily hairnets" you see many places are not correct for this era. Although it's hard to find the exact materials used from back then, you can still make one that looks very much like the ones they had for a fairly reasonable price. Sally Beauty Supply sells a hairnet which is a bit thicker than the very thin "lunch lady" hairnets, that works marvelously. They are called "Wave-O-Net" and come in a little box for only $1 a piece..." The full text of the article explains how to make this net a part of your period impression.

Three Sisters Millinery in Texas offers a very nice decorative hair net, and will be able to custom make your choice of colors, even if none are currently posted in her store.  

Please do wear sunscreen, but no obvious makeup, no fingernail polish, nor any modern jewelry.

See the next page for more links and research resources.